Over the last few years, I have learned that the key to unlocking the secrets to sewing jeans has been to just keep sewing patterns from different designers. My sewing skills have grown so much through my experience sewing jeans. Here are my top lessons from creating 3 pairs.  All of the styles were quite different and had something new to teach me.

As I am about to embark on another jeans sewing adventure to make the Cashmerette Ames Jeans, I wanted to share these 3 makes with you.

All month, I’ll be writing about my experiences sewing pants, sharing tips and showing off a few new ones, too! I’ve decided February is “For the Love of Pants” Month! Tag your pants makes on Instagram using #ForTheLoveOfPantsFeb so I can learn from you, too!

The Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans: My First Time Sewing Jeans!

The Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans pattern (curve version) was the “it” jean to sew when I bought it. But it took me a while to work up the courage to try. I wish I made them sooner because they are not that hard to sew, like all pants!

I liked that this pattern offered a lot of different options in one. Furthermore, many people on the internet had already made them. I even watched this video by Sew Sew Live which was really helpful. I agree with a lot of her assessments of the pattern.

What I learned

First, I learned that this is not my favourite way to make a fly. It’s not the worst but combined with the button front, there is a lot of gaping. I have seen that other people had similar problems in the curve size range, even with a zipper. If I made this pattern again, I would definitely borrow a different construction method (see my favourite from the Open Studio Shop Pants below). I also find this fly really long on me.

Second, I learned that all denims behave differently and can grow due to their different weights, fibre contents and their twill weaves. These jeans were way too tight when I first put them on and after a few hours grew to be too big. This denim was very prone to bagging out and might have made a better chore coat than jeans.

Third, I learned that Megan Nielsen pant patterns are a relatively good fit for me and do not mean I have to do as drastic changes to the pattern.

Fourth, I learned that choosing a straight size from hip to ankle wasn’t going to work for me. These jeans were supposed to be tapered but because my leg is quite thin from knee to ankle, they looked like straight-leg jeans on me. In the end, I took them in quite a bit on the side seams. Now I know I need to taper down 2-4 sizes from my hip when I get to my knee and follow that smaller size down to my ankle, if I want my jeans to replicate the intended fit.

Sewing Jeans out of the Megan Nielsen Flint Pants

I have since made these in a few different fabrics, but these remain my favourite. Megan Nielsen has used a very interesting and elegant closure on this pattern and the Wattle Skirt. I think this pattern in particular makes a wonderful first pants pattern because of the closure and the forgiving style as I wrote in my last post Sewing Secrets: Lessons from Sewing a Million Pants. 

Although the Megan Nielsen Flint Pants (curve version) are not jeans proper, I made them out of a light to medium weight denim and included some jeans details like topstitching. So, they count!

What I learned

First, I learned that wide-leg pants are easier to fit and I like how they look. 

Second, I learned picking a hem length for wide-leg pants can be frustrating: cropped? Pooling on the floor? What’s in style? What is practical for my life? I’m still thinking about cropping them to this day. However, Spring through Fall, I wear them anyways. Except in the rain!

Third, I got to practice my topstitching on the the waistband and hems in an easier weight fabric with less interfering seam allowance. Moreover, I learned the settings to use on my machine.

Fourth, fit-wise, I need more room in the back crotch where the crotchline turns upwards. After making these, I experimented with many other pants. Generally, I need to add 1 to 1.25 inches to the back rise. I also learned I like a high waist in this style.

The Open Studio Shop Pants: The interesting ones

The style-lines of the Open Studio Shop Pants pattern are jeans adjacent and look great in denim, but also in other types of fabric. I chose a duck canvas from Blackbird Fabrics in Lilac and that taught me a whole lot, on top of the awesome techniques in this pattern.

What I learned

First, this pattern had hands-down the BEST techniques for fly construction and waistband construction that I had ever seen. Additionally, they offer a full series of video tutorials for the whole pattern and show you industrial techniques, which was so interesting and helpful! This pattern seriously upped my game.

Second, I learned that duck canvas is very stiff initially and I’m still wearing them in. My body shape and weight tend to fluctuate quite a bit and for over a year I couldn’t comfortably wear them. Unlike my Dawn Jeans, these did not grow enough as I wore them! 

Third, I learned that making a muslin could really help me fine-tune the crotch fit and I am happy with the results for this style.

Fourth, I learned that I like the interesting details and the shape of the legs on these, even if I do find the final length I decided on not quite short or long enough. Again, I still need to figure out hem length.

If you start now, who knows where you could be this time next year!

If you have a few years sewing experience or don’t mind making mistakes to learn, don’t hesitate to tackle jeans making. There are many courses, sew-a-longs, You Tube tutorials and books out there to help you along the way, now. If you start now, who knows where you could be this time next year! If you do make jeans or pants, please share them with me by sending me a picture at yvette@gatherandease.com or by using #ForTheLoveOfPantsFeb so I can learn from you, too!