There are many gratifying parts to jeans making and sewing back pockets on jeans is among them for me. In fact, I like it so much that I want to share all the jeans pocket topstitching tricks I know with you in this step-by-step look at how I do it. As with everything in sewing, there are lots of different ways to do this, so choose what works for you. I hope you can find something helpful. If you’re including a coin pocket in your front main pocket these tips can help, too!

I’m sewing these Cashmerette Ames Jeans as part of my “For the Love of Pants” month. All month, I’ll be writing about my experiences sewing pants, sharing tips and showing off a few new ones, too! I’ve decided February is “For the Love of Pants” Month! Tag your pants makes on Instagram using #ForTheLoveOfPantsFeb. E-mail me a picture of what you’ve made at yvette@gatherandease.com. I’d love to learn from you.

Step 1: Prepare for sewing back pockets on jeans

Interfacing

Depending on my fabric, I like to interface the top edge of my fabric. Even when my denim is non-stretch, this area gets a lot of stretching action and interfacing helps the twill weave to hold its shape.

After interfacing, I press the edge in place according to the pocket directions.  Usually, it asks you to press the edge under ½” and then another ½”.

Topstitching

I then topstitch the top edge ⅛” from the fold using and edgestitching foot. Make sure to use the same stitch length you’ve used on the rest of the jeans. Experiment on a scrap before-hand to make sure you like the look. 

Topstitch ¼” away from the first line of stitching. This is a great time to learn exactly where to place your fabric in relation to your presser foot to achieve consistent ¼”  spacing between the two lines of stitching. I chose to make my spacing a little more than a ¼” on these jeans and you can choose the spacing you like, too.

Trim all your little tails. If you are somewhat careful, you don’t need to secure them because they will be enclosed in the stitching when you topstitch your pocket to the jeans. If you are going to put a design on your back pockets, this is when I like to do it!

Pressing

Fold under the pocket sides and bottom according to your pattern and press them well. Most patterns ask you to press under a ½”. I like to use a clover hot-hemmer like I showed in my pressing tools article. Some people create a template the size of the finished pocket out of thin cardboard and use that to press the sides under.

Here’s an optional step to get that pocket super crisp and flat, as long as your fabric is a super-frayer! Unfold all the edges you pressed in and carefully snip to just shy of the seam allowance. Then refold the edges in so that there are not multiple folds of fabric at each corner and re-press!

Reapeat for the other pocket

Follow the same steps for the other pocket. Then, lay one pocket on top of the other to check they are the same. Adjust if needed.

Time for sewing back pockets on the jeans! All this preparation is going to pay off in the next steps.

Step 2: Pin your pocket to the jeans back

Using the markings you transferred from your pattern, align the pocket to the back. Place pins in the centre of the pocket, instead of along the seam line where you will edgestitch. This will keep the pocket flat while you sew. Just gently smooth your pocket as you go.

Step 3: Roll up the pant leg

Roll up your pant leg and secure it with a few pins, this will mean less fabric to wrestle with as you sew the pocket. You are going to be pivoting and you don’t need to be threading the leg through your machine’s harp space (that empty hole to the right of the needle) again and again and again.

Step 4: Use that edgestitching foot

If you have an edgestitching foot, put it on your machine if you haven’t already. Sewing back pockets on jeans is the perfect time to use this foot. It will help you to maintain a nice even ⅛” all the way around the perimeter of the pocket.

Step 5: Start sewing back pockets on your Jeans

In this photo, you can see where I started sewing back pockets on my jeans at the inner line of stitching near the top corner. Starting here will allow you to start and finish in an easier area and secure your stitches at the end. It will also allow you to to step 6 easily! All along the process, don’t be afraid to turn your flywheel by hand to sew through difficult areas or areas where you need only a few stitches.

Step 6: Count your stitches across the top corner of the pocket

Sew up to ⅛” from the top of the pocket and pivot 90 degrees. Sew across the top to ⅛” from the edge. I like to count my stitches and replicate the same number on the other top corner. Of course, if your machine is struggling with the thickness of your fabric, you may need to add or subtract some stitches to preserve the ¼” space between the two lines of stitches. However, this is a good benchmark to get you in the ballpark.

Step 7: Sew around the outside of your pocket first

Once you have come up and across the first top corner of your pocket, pivot and continue down the side at each corner pivot and sew staying ⅛” from the edge the whole time. When you come up to the other top corner, stop ⅛” from the top edge, pivot and count across the same number of stitches you sewed on the first top corner. 

Step 8: Sew the inner line of topstitching

Check to make sure you are a ¼” from the first line of topstitching you sewed along the folded edge. Pivot and maintain a distance of ¼” from the first line of topstitching pivoting at corners as needed. You can even measure and mark a small dot where you need to pivot if it helps you.

Step 9: Secure the end of the stitching

Don’t backstitch! When you are close to reaching your starting point, clip the topstitching threadtail of the stitches where you started. When you reach your starting point, sew a few stitches over the original ones. Then, use a tapestry needle to pull your thread to the wrong side and knot it. You can clip the tails now.

Generally, backstitching with topstitching thread can make a real mess and might not secure the end of your seam. You could get the thread stuck in your bobbin area. Sometimes you can get away with it, but the topstitching on the right side will not be as neat and a lot thicker than the rest of your pocket.

Step 10: Match it up

Here’s how to use the first leg to match the pocket placement on the second. 

Place your finished leg on a flat surface. Remove the pins from the pocket. Unpin the leg that you pinned up in step 3. Place the pocket that is not stitched on top of the one that is, right sides together. Place the leg you haven’t stitched a pocket to on top of that, right side down. As you go, make sure all edges of the pockets and back pant pieces match up. 

Carefully pin one or two pins through the top two layers (the unfinished back piece and the unsewn pocket) to secure them together. Make sure not to pin into the finished pocket that is already attached the back pant. 

Flip the top two layers (the unfinished back piece and the unsewn pocket) over and check that you haven’t pinned through any extra layers. Replace it on top of the finished leg to check that everything matches. Feel around the pocket placement to see if any edges stick out on any layers. Peel back the unfinished leg slowly to check that the pockets line up. If everything looks good, repeat steps 3 to 9.

Step 11: Be proud OF Sewing Back POckets On jeans!

My goodness, you’ve done it! Your bum is going to look great in these. Continue on with your pattern. Tag me @gatherandease or e-mail me yvette@gatherandease.com  a picture of what you’ve done. I want to cheer you on! Even if it isn’t perfect remember, that you are one step closer to getting where you want to be.

Other helpful tips:

• People expect you to know this but use regular thread in your bobbin and topstitching thread in the needle.
• No matching topstitching thread? Use two strands of thread in the eye of your topstitching needle.
• All along the process, don’t be afraid to turn your flywheel by hand to sew through difficult areas. If you only need a few stitches and/or have a very thick area, this trick can really help.
•  Check pocket placement before finalizing side-seams. Baste the side seams together, try on your pants and make sure the pockets are in the right spot for your glorious derrière. It can make a real difference.